How to get a gauge swatch that does not lie!

I'm going to be honest. I hate swatching. When I'm making a shawl, I just make sure I like the density of the fabric and measure off the finished piece. However, when it comes to garments swatching is essential to making sure the garment fits properly when it is finished and blocked.

Why is the correct gauge important for fit?

If you are not getting the same gauge your finished garment will be either too big or too small compared to the intended size. And it can easily be off by A LOT!

Here's an example: For a garment where the gauge should be 16 Tss and 16 rows per 4"/10cm, if your swatch is 18 Tss and 18 rows per 4"/10cm and you are making a size with a finished chest of 50"(125cm) the final chest size you would actually get is 45"(110cm). That's way too small!

If you're making something that requires as much time and effort as a garment, spending a little time to gauge is well worth it.

How to Swatch

How to swatch is important. If you don't do it properly, you won't get an accurate measurement of your gauge.

Go big!

A gauge swatch should be larger than what you will need to measure. If the pattern calls for a 4"/10cm swatch you should do enough stitches and rows to make at least a 5"/12.5cm swatch. Even bigger is better! Do not count your edge stitches when doing your measurement.

Use the right stitch pattern

Use the stitch pattern described in the pattern. Different stitches have different characteristics (height, stretch) and that can affect your gauge.

Get your working gauge

Working gauge is the your gauge before blocking. Measure and record the working gauge so you can periodically check while you're making your sweater. If your working gauge is changing your finished gauge will change too.

Block your swatch

1) Block your swatch in a similar manner to how you will wash your garment. If you're wet blocking the sweater, wet block the swatch. If you're gonna throw your sweater in the laundry, do that to your swatch!

2) Don't pin! Dry your swatch flat but don't use pins. You want to see how the fabric behaves naturally.

3) Allow to completely dry. Ideally wait a day or two so the fabric is completely dry and can relax into its final shape.

Measure your swatch!

After it is fully blocked and dried you can measure! Measure in the center of the swatch without including any edge stitches.

What if your gauge swatch is the wrong size?

1) Change the hook size. If you have too many stitches and rows in your swatch, go up a hook size. If you have too few, go down a hook size.

2) Change the yarn. Sometime the yarn just won't work. When you find the best hook size, the density of the fabric is too thick or to airy.

3) Change the hook. A grippy hook will often create a looser gauge than a smooth hook. The shape of the hook can also affect gauge. Trying a different hook may be helpful.

Don't just pick another size!
You may be tempted to just make a different size, but a well graded pattern does not grow all of the parts at the same rate. While there is 30"(75cm)+ difference between the smallest and largest finished chest size in adult women's patterns. The difference between the smallest and largest neck is only 7"(18cm). Going up or down a few sizes will result in a poorly fitting sweater.